"Constraints become a source of creativity and meaning."

Francéclat is committed to promoting the creativity, craftsmanship and excellence of French timepiece, jewellery and tableware brands. These brands owe their success to the people who guide, shape and inspire them behind the scenes. To celebrate their valuable contribution, we are hosting a series of interviews that share insights from brand leaders.

Parisian jeweller Rouvenat, forgotten since the 19th century, was reborn in 2022 with a firm conviction: luxury can do things differently. A circular fine jewellery house working exclusively with recycled gold and vintage stones, Rouvenat is determined to transform the industry's practices for good. We sat down with its co-founder and CEO, Marie Berthelon.

How did the idea of co-founding Rouvenat come about?

The renaissance of Rouvenat is above all a story of rediscovery. When I came across Léon Rouvenat's archives, nearly 3,000 historical gouaches, I was struck by the modernity and richness of this forgotten heritage. That discovery was the starting point for relaunching the Maison in 2022, alongside three partners.

What influenced your personal journey in jewellery?

After more than 20 years at Hermès, Cartier and De Beers, where I held senior positions and contributed to sustainability initiatives, including building the first blockchain traceability system at De Beers, I gradually began to question the traditional models of luxury. Those great houses taught me everything, but they also confronted me with their limits when it came to responsibility. That journey led me to co-found Rouvenat: to breathe new life into a forgotten 19th-century jeweller, working exclusively with recycled gold and vintage stones.

What sets Rouvenat apart in today’s jewellery market?

Our distinctiveness stems first and foremost from our desire to revive a forgotten heritage, bringing Léon Rouvenat's legacy back to life whilst anchoring it in a resolutely contemporary vision. We are also the first circular fine jewellery house, with a holistic approach that rethinks the entire value chain. Beyond our own creations, we are helping to build an ecosystem by establishing the first genuine supply chain for antique stones and diamonds, putting existing resources back into circulation rather than extracting new ones.

How does this commitment translate concretely in terms of CSR?

It starts with materials: we work exclusively with recycled gold and silver, antique stones, and jewellery cases crafted by committed artists and artisans. But circularity goes beyond materials. Every piece of jewellery comes with a digital certificate of authenticity registered on our blockchain, which will follow the piece through its future lives, guaranteeing both its authenticity and its value.
We are also one of the first jewellers to have joined the Communauté des Entreprises à Mission (the French network of purpose-driven companies). It is a structural commitment, enshrined in our articles of association, that binds us to durably transforming the practices of the industry.

What are your best-sellers?

Our flagship collection, Unlock, is inspired by Léon Rouvenat's historical hallmark: a lock that also evokes open-mindedness, a founding value of the Maison. Then comes Frame, which draws its inspiration from the portraits of loved ones that were created at the time, today shining a light on true portraits of stones. Finally, Tag offers a clean, understated design centred on a token that showcases a selection of stones particularly beloved by our international clientele.

What trends are you observing?

We are seeing a very clear shift towards a more committed form of luxury, with growing attention paid to traceability, sustainability and the impact of products. But beyond these concerns, jewellery is also becoming far more experiential and personal: clients are looking for unique, customisable pieces that tell a story and in which they can play a part.

Where can your collections be discovered?

Our flagship is at 416 rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, and we have just opened our second standalone boutique in Seoul. We are also present online, at events and through international partners.

How are you approaching international development?

We favour a progressive, hands-on approach. We begin by testing markets through experiential formats, particularly trunk shows, which allow us to meet our clients directly, understand their expectations and refine our offer. Once that learning phase is complete, we identify and build wholesale partnerships with local players who are perfectly aligned with our positioning.
The United States is currently our priority, it is a particularly receptive market, with a strong appreciation for diamonds and a real affinity for our creative, distinctive approach. We are then developing the Middle East and Europe, focusing on cities where our model finds a natural resonance, such as London and Geneva.
It was in fact in London, during February's Fashion Week, that we collaborated with Patrick McDowell, whose circular approach mirrors our own values, a collaboration that will continue in various cities and formats.

What are your goals and ambitions for the Maison?

Our priorities are clear: accelerating international growth, structuring the supply chain and raising brand awareness. In the longer term, our ambition is to make Rouvenat a global reference in circular fine Pauline, and to send a message to the entire industry: reinvent resources for a more responsible and creative form of luxury.