Magazine

Spotlight on three century-old houses

In the mid-19th century, Paris was in the throes of huge transformation. The City of Light was twinkling in all its glory, and exceptional master jewellers were following suit. Legendary names René Lalique, Léon Rouvenat, Suzanne and Roger Tirbour-Copin were the envy of the world, with their know-how and vision of beauty and luxury. The houses are still popular today, because new faces have honed and polished their art, making it shine with the beauty of their creations and the timelessness of their collections.

Copin: the authentic Janus jeweller

Remember Janus, the Roman god of transitions, endings and beginnings? Sajina Dutertre is the new artistic director of Copin, and her role is a little like that of Janus. Having recently arrived at the jewellery house that began life in 1870, she has explored deep inside its archives to become familiar with its world. Her discoveries inspired her to create a collection that fuses heritage with innovation: Collection00. Presented as transitional, it combines reissue with reinvention, as is the case with the 82 ring, a serrated wedding ring pulled from the archives, and the New 82, which is fitted with tsavorite garnets or diamonds. There are new jewellery creations to complete the collection, including the floral and retro Daisy ring. Maison Copin is taking a new turn, affirming its desire to create timeless jewellery that “reflects a truth”, pieces that can be worn at any age and for any occasion.

Lalique: the timeless trio of Femme, Faune and Flore  

It all began in 1887, when the inventor of modern jewellery, René Lalique, established his brand on Rue du Quatre-Septembre. He wanted to create something that had never been seen before. At a time where ideas were coming thick and fast, he drew inspiration from three great sources of beauty: Femme, Faune and Flore (women, flora and fauna). These 3Fs have been the driving force behind the brand for generations. Producing iconic and limited-edition pieces, the jeweller alternates between Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles with graphic lines that stand the test of time. Among these emblematic jewels nestles the Cabochon collection. This timeless and minimalist crystal ring, handcrafted based on a 1931 design, is undoubtedly the definitive iconic piece from Maison Lalique.

Rouvenat: the committed green Phoenix

In 1852, Léon Rouvenat decided to revolutionise the jewellery business by establishing the first jewellery factory. He hosted high dignitaries and aristocrats from all over the world who jumped at the chance to find out what was happening behind the scenes in the world of fine jewellery. Marie Berthelon, Coralie de Fontenay, Sandrine de Laage and Frédéric de Narp are now resurrecting this avant-garde approach. Their vision is clear: to make Rouvenat one of the first jewellery houses with a circular economy. Its gold and silver are recycled and the stones they use are sourced from private collections, auction rooms or other houses. Each piece is recorded in a blockchain to guarantee its provenance, value and age. During Paris Fashion Week, the brand presented one of its iconic pieces – Le Cadenas – which was inspired by Second Empire rose windows. The new line is a perfect marriage between inspiration from the past and cutting-edge innovation to deal with current issues.

These brands seem to have found the elixir of longevity: timeless collections, inspired by a remarkable heritage and backed up with a century and a half of jewellery creations. Add to that limitless creativity and extraordinary know-how, and the result is a team of three legends who continue to dazzle and delight.

In its aim to accelerate the development of French watchmaking, jewellery and tableware, Francéclat studies and understands markets, drives creativity, stimulates innovation and brings the right people together to boost their international reach.