Pearls: the elegant emblem of French jewellery

At the turn of the 20^th century, the world was gripped by “pearlmania” and Paris was its nerve centre. From opera to cinema, painting to photography, costume jewellery to the finest pieces, pearls became an emblem of the Roaring Twenties. But fashion is fickle! Pearls gradually fell out of favour, but just as they seemed destined to disappear forever, some creative new generations of French jewellers have now brought them back into the spotlight with renewed creativity and passion.

A legacy of the Roaring Twenties

A story of artistry, craftsmanship and commerce is told by the incredible exhibition, “Paris, capitale de la perle”, organised by L’École des Arts Joailliers from 21 November 2024 to 1 June 2025, at the Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau, on Boulevard de Montmartre in Paris.

Between the late 1860s and the 1930s, a busy trade route connected the Arabian-Persian Gulf with France. From its famed “pearl coast”, the Gulf supplied Paris with precious natural resources, and the most prestigious jewellers of Place Vendôme transformed them into exquisite creations. Pearl jewellery became an intrinsic part of Parisian culture, championed by icons such as Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn, and Jackie Kennedy across the Atlantic.

By 1939, Japan’s cultured pearls had made their way onto the French market. Long seen as imitations, or even counterfeits of natural pearls, they were eventually accepted under one condition: they had to be clearly labelled for sale as cultured pearls.

With overfishing, competition from cultured and imitation pearls, and changing tastes, the delicate pearl faded from fashion. But its story hadn’t ended. Now, French jewellers are once again finding inspiration in its beauty.

Pearls and jewellery: a French revival

Gone is the prim and proper pearl necklace of old. In its place, bold and inventive designs breathe new life into this storied stone.

The celestial creations of Brigitte Ermel

In 1992, Brigitte Ermel became the first woman to create her own high jewellery workshop in Paris. Just steps from the Place Vendôme, she has since been designing statement pieces that honour the tradition of excellence in French know-how.

Her creations are inspired by the natural world, travel, and the jeweller’s Breton roots. Ermel’s Céleste collection weaves together precious memories and celestial symbolism in an homage to the astral world, her pieces evoking the subtle and unique hues of the cosmos. They include the Solaire sautoir, in white gold, diamonds and Tahitian pearls, in which the pearls seem to float, like stars guiding the way.

A contemporary take on the pearl necklace, this design showcases French jewellery expertise through a sense of detail that subtly highlights the natural radiance of pearls.

Tatiana Verstraeten’s bohemian chic pieces

The designs by Tatiana Verstraeten are as delicate as they are surprising. Respectfully blending traditional jewellery techniques with the volume of costume jewellery, Tatiana Verstraeten imbues a modern feel to her jewellery collections. Her light touch and fascinating technical skill bring her eye-catching jewellery to life.

The Tzigane collection takes inspiration from embroidery, translating its artistry into jewellery form. Gold, baroque pearls and diamonds intertwine, as in the Grande Ring, created using clusters of pearls. A signature piece of extraordinary beauty.

Bague Grande Ring, perles & diamant - Tatiana Verstraeten

Essential pearl expertise

Regarded as a leading expert in cultured pearls, Alain Boite is the trusted supplier of French and international fine jewellery brands. From Paris to London, New York to Hong Kong, his reputation precedes him.

From sourcing pearls to composing parures, he has one quest: to find the perfect pearl. His network grants him access to the most renowned pearl farms across Japan, Indonesia, Tahiti, Australia, Burma and China, allowing him to secure stones with the ideal diameter, whether minute or magnificent in scale.

Assembling a pearl parure for a major brand can take years; it is an intricate process of patiently selecting perfectly matched pearls from around the world.

Timeless yet boldly modern, pearls continue to inspire the world of French jewellery. They may have faded into obscurity at times, but they always return, bolder and more characterful than ever, reinterpreting the conventions of traditional jewellery. From celestial designs to bohemian compositions, French expertise and insight have reimagined the pearl, reclaiming it as one of the pillars of contemporary luxury. A fleeting trend? Definitely not. Pearls have once again found their place at the heart of French jewellery. This is pearl jewellery at its radiant best.